Sewing-machine.



c. A. DEARBORN .SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILLED OCT. 7. I914.

Patented July 20, 1915.

4 SHEETS SHEET I.

9 z a umw coLuMulA PLANDGRAPH (0.. WASHINGTON. D. it

c. A. DEARBO RN.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED OCT. 7, 1914.

1,147,61 4. 1 Patented July 20, 1915.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.'

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I M 6mm 9% COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH co., WASHINGTON, D. c.

C. A. DEARBORN.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION HLED ear. 1. 1914.

1, 147,614. Patented July 20, 1915.

4 SHEETS SHEET 4.

"Z a a Gavan/{43oz COLUMBIA PLANOORAXH 110.. WASHINGTON, D. c.

35 MWZEM UNITED srA'rEs PA NT CHARLES A. 'DnAniaonmoEN-Ew YORK, NQY.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Specification of Letters l atent.

oFF oE.

Patented July 20, 1915.

Application filed October 7, 1914. Serial N 0. 865,514.

known as turned seams, such as are formed upon the finished edges ofcoats and other garments. r 1 l The invention in 'its simplest form.comprises a sewing machine having stitch-fo-rming and work feedingmechanism in combination with oppositely acting devices operatingrespectively on the seam and the layers of material adjacent thereto tostretch or spread the turned material backwardly upon the seam, thearrangement being such that the basting thread is sewed through the workwhile it is held in position by said oppositely acting devices.

In one embodiment of my invention I em- 1 ploy the ordinary work feedingfoot and cooperating presser foot to engage the exposed surfaces of thetwo turned over layers of the work which is preliminarily manipulated bythe hands of the operator, while the stretcting or spreading devicewhich acts upon the seam in opposition to the said feeding device is inthe form of an oscillating hook acting preferably in the plane of thefeed of the work, transversely to the line of feed, to engage the workin or near the line of the seam to pull the seam slightly in onedirection while the body of the work is held as explained.

p In another form ofmy invention I have introduced an additional elementin the form of cloth spreading or stretching members which engage theturned over layers of the work at a point between the stitchforming andfeeding mechanisms and the spreading or stretching hook, said spreadingor stretching members acting directly 0pposite to the hook so that'while the hook is pulling the seam ,in" one direction, saidspreading'or stretching members are moving the turned over layers of thework in the opposite direction. In this form of machine the describedoperation takes place just prior to each penetration of the 'work' bythe needle.

In order that my invention may be fully understood, I will firstdescribe the same with reference to the accompanying draw' ings, andafter-wards point out the novelty more particularly in the annexedclaims.

In said drawings,-Figure 1 is a front elevation of one form of myimproved sewingmachinea Fig. 2 is asectional plan View of the same. Fig.3 is a detail sectional endviewo f part of the same. F ig. 4 is a detailView slmilar to Fig. 2, illustrating the operation of the machine upon apiece of Work.

Figs. 5 and 6 arerespectively adetail plan and elevation of one form ofstretching or spreading hook. Fig; 7 is a view similar to Fig.- 2ofasimplified form of machine embodying my invention. Fig. 8 is a detailfront elevation of the spreading'or stretching hook and its operationmechanism. Figs. 9, 10 and 11 are detail views of a slightly modifiedform of the 'st're'tchinghor spreading hook.

The machine is built upon ing u'p'from the base; J ournaled in the arm 2and in the usual bearing standards. upon any suitable frame, such asshown in which 1 1s abase and 2 the usual sewlng machine arm, standthebase 1, is the main shaft which extends horizontally and longitudinallythrough the machine and is provided at one end with the fly wheel 6 andthe driving pulley 7. "Atthe opposite end of the shaft 5 is mounted arotary hook (not shown) of the ordinary stitch-formingmechanism or ifpreferred, theordinary rotary shuttle of well known form may: besuitably mounted upon the shaft 5.

10 is a common form of needle bar carry-J ing the usual needle 11,operating in bearusual rocker lever 13, 'journaled upon the arm 2 at'll, and driven by the eccentric link mechanism actuated by the eccentric16 upon i 'the shaft '5. t

' the bearing standards of the machineframe.

25 is the usual feed dogoperating, in the slots of the clothsupportingplate 20 and rigidly mounted at 26 upon the horizontal ings 12of the arm .2, and actuated by the f rocker arm 27, which is journaledupon bearingpin 28 carried in the upper end of the vertical rocker arm29, which carries at its lower end the bearing pin 30 suitably journaledin the base frame of the machine.

.- The forward and back movements of rocker operating upon the eccentric35 and pivoted at its opposite end upon the journal pin 28. Up and downmovements of rocker arm 27 are effected by the cam 40 on shaft 5 and thearm 11 projecting from rocker arm 27 and resting upon the cam 40.

41-5 is the usual spring actuated presser foot mounted upon the verticalrod 46, which has bearings in the sewing machine frame and is actuatedand controlled to cooperate with the work supporting plate and feed dogin the usual manner.

The stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms above described are of the:common construction in sewing machines in general use today. Theirspecific form is not es sential to the present invention but they aredescribed only as illustrating the principles of the necessary elementsof the improved machine, the novelty in which comprises the combinationwith suitable work feeding and stitch-forming mechanisms of devices forspreading or stretching the outer layers of work away from the seam informing a 4 turned seam.

At the front of the machine, adjacent to the vertical. transverse planeof the stitchforming and feeding mechanisms is a bear"- ing standard 50,upon the upper end of which is journaled a rock arm 51 to which isadjustablv and removably secured a cloth engaging hook member 52. Thishook member 52 may be formed with an integral pointed claw 53 as shownin Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 of the drawings, or the hook member may beformed with a removable claw as shown in Figs. 7-11 of the drawings ashereinafter described. This hook member 52 is secured to the horizontalrock arm 51 either by means of a single set screw 54 as shown in Figs.1, 2 and 4c of the drawings or by means of two set screws 55 as shown inFigs. 5 and 6 of the drawings. In either form it is to be understoodthat the hook member 52 can be securely clamped upon the rock arm 51 inthe exact horizontal plane desired to perform its work, or, ifpreferred, the set screws 54 or 55 can be left loose so that the hookmember 52 will have a relative motion upon its supporting rock arm 51 toenable it to automatically adjust itself to the crotch of the seam inperforming its work.

The hook carrying rock arm 51 is pivoted at 60 to a pit-man 61 which ispivoted at its opposite end 62 to a rock arm 63 journaled at 64: upon astandard 65 and connected through a ournal sleeve with a rock arm 66,which has a ball and socket bearing 67 with the forward end of pitman 68connected at its rear end through ball and socket bearing 69, with anupwardly projecting arm or lug 70, formed integral with the rear end ofthe eccentric link 36. By this arrangement of parts hook member 52 isoscillated or rocked in a horizontal plane in timed relation to theforward and backward movements of the feed dog.

Projecting up from the base 1 between the standards 50 and 65 of themachine frame is a bearing standard upon the upper end of which ispivoted a short rock arm 76. A set screw 7 7 passes through said rockarm 7 6 into the standard 7 5 to form the pivotal bearing therefor.Pivoted at 7 8 upon the short rock arm 7 6 is a horizontal arm or lever79. Secured to the working end of said lever 79 by means of a set screw80 is a work engaging jaw 81 havinga downwardly curved lip 82 and aserrated or roughened cloth engaging face 83. This jaw 81 is presenteddirectly beneath the plane of feed of the work and is, by reason of itsmounting, designed to move slightly in the direction of feed andtransversely thereto as will be more plainly pointed out hereinafter.

The lever 79 is formed with integral ears or lugs 85 carrying bearingscrews 86, upon which are pivoted the ears or lugs 87, formed integralwith a member 88 formed at its working end with a jaw 89 having upturnedlip 90 and serrated working face 91, and presented in working relationto the lower jaw 81 of the lever 79. A pin passes through the heel ofmember 88 into the lever 7 9 and extension spring 96 is mounted uponsaid pin 95 and acts upon the heel of member 88 to tend to move theupper jaw 89 toward the lower jaw 81. The right hand extension or tail79 of lever 79 is pivotally connected with the rock arm 63 at 62.

Journaled in the upper end of the standard 100 is a short rock shaft 101formed with a wing 102 which is presented just beneath the member 88 asshown particularly in Fig. 1 of the drawings. This rock shaft 101 has adownwardly and forwarding projecting extension 101 which rests above acam 103 upon the main shaft 5, so that under the action of said cam thewing 102 engages member 88 periodically for raising and lowering jaw 89with relation to the jaw 81. V

The operation of this form of the machine will be clear with particularreference to Fig. 1, with but slight additional explanation. The work isplaced in the machine in the usual manner between the work support ingplate 20 and presser foot 1-5, care being taken to insert the seam edgetoward the right between the jaws S1 and 89. As the machine is startedthe feed in the usual way moves the work forward the length of a stitch,the needle being out of the work. While this feeding movement is takingplace, the cloth engaging jaws 81 and 89 held in engagement with theopposite turned over layers of the work adjacent to the seam,

are caused to move laterally to the left and at the same time forwardlywith the feed, for smoothing out and stretching slightly the layers ofthe work in the plane of feed. Simultaneously with the actionof the feedand cloth-engaging jaws the hook 53 of member 52 engages the work in thecrotch of the turned seam and moves toward the right, tending to pullthe seam line to the right, while the turned over layers of the work arestretched or smoothed in the opposite direction. The movement of thehook member 52 does not interfere with the feed of the work, since itsclaw 53, when in engagement with the crotch of the seam, moves forwardlyin the direction of feed at the same time thatit is pulling transverselytothe right. At the completion of this feed ing, smoothing andstretching operation, the needle penetrates the work in the usual mannerand secures the goods in the described adjusted position. I have foundin some classes of work that it is desirable to have the hook member 52loosely mounted upon its carrier so as to enable it to automaticallyadjust itself vertically, while it is operated, and particularly duringits rearward or neg ative stroke, since the loose mounting will enablethe rearward movement of the hook to readily adjust itself into theextreme crotch of the turned seam, so as to more effectively pull theseam line transversely during the next succeeding active stroke of thehook.

The hook member 52 and the work engaging jaws 81 and 89 are operatedfrom the same eccentric 35 that actuates the feed, so that the propercooperation of these parts is insured in a simple manner. The timing ofthe cam 103 is such that when the lever member 79 is moving toward theright on its negative stroke, the jaw 89 will be held away from the jaw81 to free the work between said jaws.

Referring now to the simplified form of machine illustrated in Figs.7-11 of the drawings, it should be understood that the work feeding andstitch-forming mechanisms are the same as in the form of the machine ustdescribed. The work engaging and stretching jaws of the first form ofmachine are entirely omitted in the simplified form about to bedescribed, since I have discovered by experiment upon certain classes ofwork that the operator can so manipulate the upper and lower layers ofwork with relation to the turned seam when it is held by the feedmechanism and presser foot, as to enable the work engaging hook toeffectively stretch the seam line inwardly from the line of stitches toproduce satisfactory results. The work engaging hook member operates onthe same principle and diflers only in details of construction. In thissimplified form of machine the hook carrier is in the form of a sleeve110 journaled upon the standard 50 and having secured to its upperreduced end a split collar 111 held in position thereon by a screw 112.Mounted upon this collar 111 is a semi-circular plate 113, secured tothe collar by set screws 11 1, by which the curved plate 113 can berigidly secured in the desired position, or can be loosely mounted uponthe carrier collar 111 for the same purpose as above described withreference to the form of hook shown in Figs. 5 and 6. The plate 113carries a removable pointed claw 115 made of bent steel wire with loop116 which rests in the recess 117 of plate 113 and is clamped therein bya set screw 118. This construction is desirable from a practicalstandpoint, since the claw 115 can readily be replaced if it shouldbecome broken or dulled. In the operation of this simplified form ofmachine, the hook member acts eX- actly as described with reference tothe preferred form, the feed member and presser foot and the hand of theoperatorholding the the turned over layers of the worksufii-v ciently toenable the hook to line slightly to the right.

So far as I am aware, the operation .of basting turned seams,preparatory to the finishing stitching, has heretofore always been doneby hand. The improved machine pull the seam will effectively anduniformly baste suchY turned seams, so that this operation will becheapened and the result improved by the use of my machine.

I claim 1. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, thecombination of oppositely acting devices engaging and. operatingrespectivelyuponthe seam and the material adjacent thereto to force theline of the seam toward the edge of the work and" spread the materialaway from the line of seam and stitch-forming mechanism for subsequentlysewing said turned seam;

2. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination withsuitable work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch forming mechanism,of oppositely acting devices operating respectively upon the scam I andthe upper and lower layers of material adjacent thereto to force theline of the seam toward the edge of the work and spread the layers ofmaterial away from the line of seam.

3. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination withsuitable work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch-forming mechanism,of means adapted to engage and hold the work at or adjacent to the seam,and a pair of cooperating work spreading jaws'arranged to engage theupper and lower surfaces of material and spread the same away from theline of the seam.

4:. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination withsuitable Work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch forming mechanism,of a cloth engaging hook adapted to engage the material adjacent to thestitching line of the seam and pull the seam line laterally toward theedge of the work.

5. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination withsuitable Work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch forming mechanism,of an oscillating cloth engaging hook, operating in the plane of feed atone side of the path of the work and adapted to engage the materialadjacent to the stitching line of the seam and pull the seam line towardthe edge of the work.

6. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination withsuitable work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch forming mechanism,of a pair of cooperating work spreading jaws arranged to en gage theupper and lower surfaces of mate rial adjacent to the seam, and a hookmember arranged to engage the work at or adjacent to the seam. and pullthe line of the seam oppositely from said jaws.

In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination withsuitable work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch forming mechanism,of a pair of cooperating work spreading jaws operating parallel with theplane of feed and arranged to engage the upper and lower surfaces ofmaterial adjacent to the seam, a hook member operating in the plane offeed at one side of the path of the work and arranged to engage the workat or adjacent to the seam and pull the line of the seam oppositely fromsaid jaws, and operating means arranged to cause said aws and hookmember to move forwardly in the direction of the feed and transverselythereof in opposite directions.

8. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination withsuitable work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch forming mechanism,of a pair of cooperating work spreading jaws operating parallel with theplane of feed and arranged to engage the upper and lower surfaces ofmaterial adjacent to the seam, means for mov ing said jaws to and frotransversely of the line of feed and in the direction of feed, means foropening and closing said jaws with relation to the work, a hook memberoperating in the plane of feed at one side of the path of the work andarranged to engage the work at or adjacent to the seam and pull the lineof the seam oppositely from said jaws, and means for moving said hookmember to and fro into and out of engagement with the work.

9. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination withsuitable work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch forming mechanism,of a work engaging hook operating in the plane of feed adapted toautomatically adjust itself into the crotch of the turned seam forengaging the material and pulling the seam laterally toward the edge ofthe work.

10. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination withsuitable work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch forming mechanism,of a work engaging hook operating in the plane of feed and comprising arocking carrier member, and a hook member mounted upon the carriermember with a limited up and down movement thereon, said hook memberbeing adapted to automatically adjust itself into the crotch of theturned seam for engaging the material. and pulling the seam laterallytoward the edge of the work.

11. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination withsuitable work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch forming mechanism,of a pair of work-engaging jaws mounted to operate in a horizontal planeabove and below the work and move in the direction of and laterally tothe line of feed; a work engaging hook operating in the horizontal planeof feed at one side of the path of the work and adapted to engage thework adjacent to the turned seam and pull the seam toward the edge ofthe work, and a common operating mechanism for said jaws and said hook.

12. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination withsuitable work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch forming mechanism,of a pair of work-engaging jaws mounted to operate in a hori- Zontalplane above and below the work and move in the direction of andlaterally to the line of feed, a work engaging hook operating in thehorizontal plane of feed adapted to engage the work adjacent to theturned seam and pull the seam toward the edge of the work, and meansoperated by the feeding mechanism for operating said jaws and said hookin unison with the feeding mechamsm.

CHARLES A. DEARBORN.

lVitnesses IVM. E. KNIGHT, LoUnLLA F. LITTLE.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of iatcnts, Washington, D. G.

